East Africa

Day 20 – June 18
Coffee at 5:30, breakfast at 6:30, and by 7:30, we were on safari through Tsavo East en route to Shimba Lodge. Among the many sightings, the highlight was the Marabou Stork, a massive bird weighing up to 20 lbs., standing 5 ft tall, and having an 8½ ft wingspan. Aptly nicknamed “undertaker birds,” they dine on carrion, some have white “hair,” and their black-feathered backsides resemble mourning cloaks.

Later, we spotted a pride of 16 lions. Lions sleep or eat nearly 20 hours a day, but with some kind of magical metabolism, they are lean and muscular. We also saw hyraxes—rat-like creatures surprisingly related to elephants and manatees.

Our guide explained the GISS system (General Impression of Size and Shape), first used in WWII to identify aircraft, now applied to wildlife. After weeks of listing animals, my GISS was beginning to wear out, especially trying to distinguish antelope species.

As we approached the Indian Ocean, the scenery shifted from arid desert to lush greenery with palms and rolling hills. After hours of bumpy roads, we reached Shimba Hills Lodge, a rustic “tree lodge” in the rainforest. Walking down a long wooden trail, we found ourselves the only guests, which felt both thrilling and eerie. Dinner on the deck offered a view of birds, monkeys, and purple water lilies floating below—an idyllic setting.

Day 21 – June 19
I slept well but was startled at 4:30 when a monkey dashed through the open-air hallway to the communal bathroom. At breakfast, we watched bushy red squirrels scurrying and a giant monitor lizard basking nearby. Our driver, Daniel, explained that zebras once lived in the reserve but were rehomed after they started biting humans, driven mad by tsetse flies. That morning, we finally experienced the flies ourselves—tiny but relentless—making me grateful for Deet wipes.

Shimba Hills National Reserve is famed for the rare Sable Antelope, but despite our hopes, we never saw one. Still, the rainforest lodge offered a unique immersion in nature.

Kenyan Voices: Language, nature, and history
• Ashe Oleng means “Thank you” in Maa, the language of the Maasai.
• In Kenya, lava is called Shetani lava (“from the devil”).
• Kenya’s first president urged, “Forgive, but never forget.”

Tamela is a proofreader and book editor; she hosts paint parties for adults, art and drama camp for kids, and is the art teacher at May River Montessori. www.tamelamaxim.com www.artposseproductions.com